As women age, they have to undergo a difficult phase, that can last several years, and is marked by strong modifications on their body: the menopause. More precisely the pre-menopause and post-menopause, these periods when estrogen levels fluctuate and drop dramatically. The consequences are well-known: hot flashes, hair loss, wrinkles apparition and increase, skin sagging. After photo-aging, inflamm'aging and chronoaging, hormonal aging is another cause to the acceleration of the apparition aging signs.
To support women in this difficult period when they more than ever need specific cares for their skins and hair, Clariant Active Ingredients defined several natural active ingredients with strong specific activities. Discover our solutions to the 10 main issues of hormonal aging.
CHANGE #1:skin structure decay leads to wrinkles and skin sagging
In the first 5 years after menopause, collagen type I and III decrease by 30%, leading to a loss of elasticity of 1.5% per year due to the lack of estrogen.
Prenylium, by protecting the skin's matrisome, protects collagen and plumps skin by +13.4% after 8 weeks. It also decrease wrinkles and skin roughness by respectively 16.6% and 19.9%, while Rootness Energize reactivates the overall skin metabolism to improve elasticity by 27% and firmness by 20% after 62 days.
These two natural active ingredients from plant roots can efficiently reduce the signs of aging caused by collagen and elastic fibers decrease in the skin.
CHANGE #2: skin thinning leads to drier and easily damaged skin
Collagen content is reduced by 2% each menopausal year. Combined with a decrease in keratinocytes proliferation, this leads to a reduction of skin thickness by more than 1% per year. As the skin is thinner, its capacity to retain water is impaired, leading to a drier skin more prone to aggressions.
Epseama stimulates epidermis thickness and keratinocytes proliferation. It reduces nasolabial wrinkles by 19% in 4 weeks, and increase skin hydration by 14,2%.
This active from the sea efficiently reinforce skin epidermis and also contribute to reduce wrinkles.
CHANGE #3: impaired barrier function leads to skin dryness and sensitive skin symptoms
With hormonal changes, sebum and lipid production decrease. In addition, the surface area of corneocytes becomes disorganized. As a result, the time to restore barrier function is doubled in aged skins than in younger skins. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) increases and sensitive skin symptoms appear.
Eosidin, an extract of unripe Citrus unshiu, efficiently strengthens the barrier function by boosting keratin-1, involucrin, filaggrin, and transglutaminase-1, leading to an increase in the formation of the cornified envelope. In the meantime, it also soothe the skin by regulating eotaxin-1 and histamine release. As a result, skin hydration increases by 40% and TEWL drops by 17% after only 2 weeks.
CHANGE #4: skin repair slows down
When subject to aggressions, the skin goes through an inflammatory phase to fight the aggressors and a proliferative phase to recover. In menopausal skins, the inflammatory phase is stronger and the proliferative phase is less efficient due to delayed re-epithelialization, reduced collagen deposition and decreased TGF-beta1 expression. As a result, wound healing takes longer.
To support skin repair, Ethience Protect, an extract from the Brazil nut, reinforces the skin barrier by acting on 3 levels: lipid synthesis, keratinocytes differentiation and cell cohesion.
CHANGE #5: hot flashes lead to sweating and can cause sleep disturbance
Up to 80% of women going through menopause experience hot flashes, a rapid and exaggerated heat dissipation response by the body. When occurring during the night, they can cause multiple awakenings and sleep disturbance. They can also be a cause of "thermal aging".
B-Circadin resynchronizes the skin cells' circadian rhythm to improve its biological functions, and contributes to a better skin complexion.
CHANGE #6: melanocytes activity leads to hyperpigmented spots
Estrogen regulates DCT (Dopachrome tautomerase), an enzyme of tyrosinase family, and a decrease in estrogen levels leads to hyperpigmentation and apparition of spots.
Alpha-Melight, natural bisabolol, inhibits melanin formation for a lightening effect of +74% after 8 weeks. HodVital tackles melanogenesis process by preventing melanin production and tyrosinase activation for skin pigmentation regulation. It lightens skin by +7.5% after 8 weeks and reduces facial spots intensity by 4.5% after 45 days.
These two actives efficiently fights the formation of hyperpigmented areas on the skin.
CHANGE #7: thinner hair cause scalp exposure and increases scalp sensitivity and squames
As skin becomes thinner with menopause, so does the scalp. It becomes less effective at being a protective barrier, and is more sensitive to irritation. Scratching reactions to calm itching sensations lead to the apparition of squames (dandruffs).
EquiScalp, a new active ingredient with scalp soothing properties and mild to the scalp's microbiota, improves the scalp condition by reducing both sebum production and desquamation by 20%.